Saturday, October 31, 2015

Lipovans: Old Believers in Exile


Lipovan religious celebration 
Swamps had symbolized for as long as humanity could remember a symbiosis between earth and water, a place that as the ideal hiding spot for those souls that protested against the oppression and injustices of the times in which they lived. Somewhere in the shallow waters of the Danube’s lakes and lagoons a new nation was born, one that was in exile, far away from its motherland. The self-imposed exile was the only available method at that time that could guarantee the survival of the Lipovans and their values which came in conflict with the religious reform from the Russian Church from that time.
The Lipovans are a Russian group, also called Old School Orthodox, which claim that they managed to preserve the original believes and practices of Russian Orthodoxy. Currently they live scattered in communities, mainly rural, in Romania, Ukraine, and Moldova. Lipovans managed to secure for themselves a stabile place in the history of Romania’s Dobrudja region, here they got organized in homogeneous communities that are eager to preserve the old ways of orthodox worship that they inherited from their ancestors that fled Russia during the time of the religious reform. Their culture is centered around the element of water, many of their traditional tales describing the lives of the fisherman or other dwellers that have work around the water.
This small group, which lives for about 300 years in exile, had managed to outline a culture which today stands apart from that of the Russians from other places. The Lipovans say that they always settled around water – lakes, lagoons, rives – because the water will always keep them safe from enemies and will provide food for families.
The Old Believes, term also use to describe them, left a visible mark in the cultural landscape of Dobrudja, both in terms of spiritual and material culture. The settlements which still offer us a good picture regarding the Old Believer’s ancestral way of life are Slava Cercheză, commune in Tulcea County, and Ghindărești, commune in Constanța County.  This town communes are very homogeneous in their ethnic structure, the Lipovans representing the dominant group.
The language of the Old Believers is distinct from Modern Russian, managing to preserve lexicon segments which are no longer in used in the standard |Russian from today. An interesting fact is that this variety was never written, and it was passed on from one generation only in an oral form.
All of the religious services of the Old Rite Orthodox Church are made in Russian, and the holidays are celebrated with a 13 day gap in comparison to the New Style Orthodox, the name which is applied sometimes to the mainstream Orthodox when they are compared to the Old Rite ones. This gap is the result of the fact that the Old Believers never adopted the Gregorian Calendar and are still using the Julian one.   
Talking about religion and Old Rite spirituality, Vovidenia and Uspenia monasteries, both in Tulcea County, are unique places because they represent the only two Old Rite monastic settlements from the world. Vovidenia hosting nuns and Uspenia monks.
Both of the two monastic settlements give the visitor the feeling of walking in to a time capsule, from the architecture to the practices and social etiquette, they preserved down to the finest detail the ancestral culture of the Old Believers.  
Hidden between the hilly plains of Northern Dobrudja, the monastic settlements are a key-elements which makes Romania a hotspot of Lipovan cultural and spiritual life.
Socially speaking, Lipovans are no different from their Eastern neighbors, they still maintain a highly patriarchal structure in which men play the major role in the household and in the communities, women being traditionally responsible with taking care of the household and raising the children. This structure is even better highlighted during religious services when within the church men and women stay in separate rows, never mixing in with each other.
Even with all of this, the small group known to as the Lipovans, managed to culturally flourish over the generation regardless of the fact that their heart is still in protest with the practices that now dominate Eastern Christianity. 

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